Dubbed the “bay boy” of British cooking, Thomas Straker may be known for his tumultuous personal life and going viral on social media, but his culinary skills are not to be messed with (initially cutting his teeth at fine dining restaurants, he now runs a thriving eponymous restaurant in Notting Hill, with another rumoured to be on the way).

What’s his secret to serving up mouthwatering dishes?

“Don’t overcomplicate a meal,” admits Straker. “Don’t overstretch yourself to try to be impressive. Simply pick the lead ingredient to work around, and for that, you’ve got to think seasonally. So in the summer, tomatoes and peaches are in season, and they can go well together. You wouldn’t put courgettes and pumpkin in the same dish, because they seldom ripen at the same time, so I would set aside any recipe that does that.

“But, for instance, courgettes, aubergines and tomatoes can be grown simultaneously and violà: that’s ratatouille (with onions and peppers of course).”

Sea bass, lentils, spinach and salsa verde

Sea Bass, lentils, spinach and salsa verde (Photo: Issy Crocker)

Serves 4

For the lentils

135ml extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 leek, green removed, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
250g puy lentils, rinsed
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
280g spinach, larger leaves
fine sea salt

For the fish

2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 x 180g skin-on fillets of sea bass
150g salsa verde
1 lemon, quartered

Set 3 tsp of olive oil over a medium heat. Add the onion, leek and a generous pinch of salt, then cook gently for 10 minutes until they are softened. Add two chopped garlic cloves and cook for a further two minutes.

Add the lentils, then pour in enough water to just cover. Bring to a gentle simmer for 20 minutes, adding a little water if necessary. Remove from the heat and leave to sit for five minutes, then drain. Season with 4 tbsp olive oil, the vinegar, and salt to taste.

For the fish, put the vegetable oil in a large frying pan and set over a medium heat. Make sure the skin of the fish fillets is dry, then sprinkle with fine sea salt. Add skin-side down to the pan, applying a little pressure with your fingertips to stop the skin from curling. Cook for 3–5 minutes, then turn off the heat and flip the fish to cook in the residual heat for a final minute. Set aside to rest.

Meanwhile, gently reheat the lentils. Then, set a frying pan over a medium heat and add the last 2 tbsp of olive oil. Add the remaining garlic and cook gently for about 30 seconds.

Add the spinach with a pinch of salt and increase the heat for 1–2 minutes until wilted. Season to taste. Spoon the lentils and spinach onto warmed plates and top each portion with a sea bass fillet, skin-side up.

Finish with some salsa verde and a lemon wedge for squeezing.

Cavolo nero rigatoni

Cavolo Nero rigatoni (Photo Issy Crocker)

Serves 4

500g cavolo nero, coarse stalks removed
3 garlic cloves, peeled and bashed with the side of a knife blade
150ml extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve
400g dried rigatoni
50g Parmesan cheese
sea salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Blanch the cavolo nero and garlic in the water for three minutes, then transfer to a blender with a little of the cooking water. Blend to make a smooth purée, then add the olive oil and blend again. Season to taste.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente, according to the packet instructions, then drain, reserving the cooking water.

In a wide pan, toss the pasta with the sauce, loosening it with a little of the pasta cooking water, if needed. Check for salt, then spoon onto warmed plates, finishing with cracked black pepper, a grating of Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Green bean, almond and peach

Green bean, almond and peach (Photo: Issy Crocker)

Serves 4 as a side dish or starter

120g flaked almonds
500g extra-fine green beans, trimmed leaves from a 30g bunch of mint
3 ripe peaches, thinly sliced
fine sea salt

For the dressing

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve (optional)
3 tbsp chardonnay vinegar
3 tbsp honey
2 pinches Aleppo chilli flakes, or regular chilli flakes
2 pinches of sea salt flakes

Preheat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan. Spread the flaked almonds on a baking tray and cook for 8-10 minutes until golden brown, shaking them halfway through. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil and blanch the green beans for 3–4 minutes. Refresh the beans in a bowl of iced water and move them around for 30 seconds to ensure the heat disperses evenly. Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper.

Halve the green beans lengthways and put in a bowl. Tear in the mint and add the sliced peaches and toasted almonds.

In a separate bowl, mix the oil, vinegar, honey, chilli flakes and sea salt flakes until emulsified, then add to the salad and toss together.

Season to taste and serve with any extra dressing, or another drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.