The Swiss city where commuters swim from work is perfect for a heatwave summer
With three heatwaves and counting in the UK this summer, Switzerland’s bathing culture makes it seem like a city break haven. Some cities have dozens of badis, or open-air public baths, with a season between May and October.
And, for Britons sweltering on public transport, social media videos of Swiss residents swimming to work look especially appealing.
I’ve come to Zurich to try its badis for myself, zipping between them by tram and on foot. Here, workers take a plunge pre-and-post the office, cool off with a lunch break dip and party beside the water in the evening with a drink and bite to eat. Zurich’s tram network is a convenient way to badi hop.
There are several tram lines in Zurich, but many of the city’s swimming hotspots are within walking distance of line 4 (also a convenient route for trips to cultural attractions, such as the Museum of Design).
Unterer Letten has terraced banks for relaxing after a swim (Photo: Elisabeth Real/© Zürich Tourismus)
Rowan, sycamore, and lime trees line the streets and offer shade on walks to and from tram stations. My first stop is Unterer Letten, a swimming channel on the Limmat river with free entry. The terraced banks are filled with sun loungers and parasols. There’s also a shaded area that includes a café, toilets and showers.
Here, the fast-flowing water means you don’t need to swim, as such. I flow downstream, enjoying the refreshing water, and climb out at one of the ladders along the bank. There’s no risk of being swept too far as there are metal poles installed across one end of the badi (which is sectioned off from the rest of the river). Some bathers chose to walk back upstream a few times, enjoying another cooling float down the river.
It’s 33°C, and the banks are busy with families and groups of teenagers. The rush of the river is punctuated with shrieks of laughter as children jump off the springboard. I get in and out three times and, on my third attempt, I gather the courage to try the springboard myself. It’s 10ft high, and diving from it offers a thrill.
Tram are one way to travel between swimming stops (Photo: Lingxiao Xie/Getty)
This is a busy summer for Zurich. Unterer Letten is hosting almost three weeks of cinema until 27 July for the Filmfluss festival, with films shown on a big screen from 9.30pm (Wednesday–Sunday). And another of the city’s open-air cinemas, Allianz Cinema, is screening films beside Lake Zurich until 17 August.
But, for football fans, the headline event in Switzerland this summer is the UEFA Women’s Euro 2025. And Zurich, which is among eight hosts for the tournament (on until 27 July), still has two matches in the city. Zurich’s tourism office is expecting strong occupancy rates for hotels this month and predicts an uptick in last-minute bookings when it’s known which teams have made the final rounds. Matches at Letzigrund stadium have sold out.
The Euros have added to the city’s atmosphere, but it is hoped ticketholders are exploring beyond the stadiums – perhaps sampling some of the badis.
Zurich’s cobbled streets have attracted football fans this summer (Photo: Andy Soloman/Getty)
A 10-minute walk upstream from Unterer Letten, past murals and greenery, leads me to another free badi, Oberer Letten. There’s music playing and an eclectic mix of people. I can swim upstream more easily here, but it’s also nice just to float. Some commuters pass by dragging tow floats (dry bags) stuffed with their work clothes. They got in further upstream and got out at Unterer Letten to walk home refreshed.
Once I’ve worked up an appetite, Zurich’s restaurants call. I head for Italian at Restaurant Rosso, around 15 minutes from Oberer Letten by public transport. I follow perfectly cooked steak with a cooling lemon and lime sorbet.
After a good night’s sleep, my next bathing stop is Lake Zurich. The lake, which is more than five times the size of England’s biggest (Windermere), is surrounded by hills and houses right down to the lake shore. There is no agriculture near the lake and no untreated sewage enters it. In fact, it’s used for drinking water (made up of 70 per cent lake water, 15 per cent groundwater and 15 per cent spring water).
Seebad Utoquai opened in 1890 (Photo: SBWorldphotography/Getty)
The aquamarine surface invites me to take the plunge at Seebad Utoquai, which is the oldest badi in Zurich (entrance fee CHF 8/£7.50). The wooden structure was built in 1890 and includes changing rooms, showers and a café. It’s the only facility on the lake owned by the city of Zurich and has excellent lifeguards.
It’s worth investing in a Zurich Card, which covers all public transport (including the train from the airport) and many attractions. It also includes an hour-long boat ride around Lake Zurich. Sitting on deck enjoying the light breeze, looking at the sprawling properties on the shore, I daydream about moving here.
Afterwards, I walk through the botanical garden, from where you can swim for free, to my last badi, Seebad Enge – also on Lake Zurich. For about £7.50, you have access to changing rooms, showers and a bar and restaurant. I take a quick dip before having lunch in my swimwear, which is the way here. Several people are working on their laptops, headphones and swimming costumes on, and occasionally get up for a swim.
Zurich knows how to handle a heatwave, and I’m already planning my return to its badis.
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More information
The Zurich Card is CHF56/£52 for 72 hours
