The handsome little Somerset market town that’s lured in chefs and artists
With its cute limestone cottages curving across green Somerset hills, Bruton has long been a handsome, if unassuming, market town. Settled since at least the 11th century, Bruton first got rich from wool weaving. But in the past decade or so, the arrival of wealthy creatives, imaginative chefs and a branch of art gallery Hauser & Wirth (at Durslade Farm, on the outskirts) has turned it into something else: an enclave of countryside cool and a delicious destination for a long weekend.
Start at the small, free Bruton Museum. It gives the town’s backstory, ranging from fossils to witches, and even contains John Steinbeck’s writing desk – the American author stayed here for six months in 1959 and said he “felt more at home in Bruton than I ever have anywhere”.
Sexey’s hospital, almshouses and chapel, founded in 1638 (Photo: Geography Photos/Universal Images Group/Getty)
Grab a map and use it to navigate the narrow bartons (alleys) leading off the high street, to cross the River Brue via the medieval packhorse bridge and to climb to the 16th-century dovecote for big views.
Getting there and getting around
Bruton is on the Bristol-Weymouth line. Trains from Bristol take 65 minutes. Limited direct services run from London Waterloo (two-and-a-half hours); trains from London Paddington run via Castle Cary (around two hours). A car is handy but not essential, as the town is walkable. Alternatively, rent a bike from Bruton Bike Hire (pedal/e-bike £20/50 a day).
Where to stay
The rooms at Number One Bruton in Somerset (Photo: Number One Bruton)
Number One Bruton has brought new life – and plenty of style – to an old corner of the High Street. The 12 rooms of this higgledy-piggledy hotel are scattered across cottages, a Georgian townhouse and a medieval forge, all flanking a serene courtyard. The finish and details are exquisite, with eye-catching art, vintage furniture, high-end bathrooms, homemade toiletries and complimentary Somerset cheese and cider.
Original character is displayed at every opportunity, including servants’ bells and exposed beams scrawled with witches’ marks. The communal lounge is full of books and photos by esteemed locals. The farmhouse breakfast – yoghurts, ham, sourdough, pastries – is sourced from as close as possible. Doubles from £190 B&B; some dog-friendly. One ground-floor room is wheelchair accessible, though the hotel isn’t fully accessible due to the layout of the original buildings.
Where to shop and what to buy
Even the convenience stores have a class on Bruton High Street. As well as basics, the Premier shop stocks homemade curries, plus Indian snacks and lassis at its Desi café in the back. The Stripy Duck bookshop is also a café and community hub, while tiny Ape or Eden sells books (with a strong local-interest section) plus games and crafts.
The Chapel (also a hotel/restaurant) bakes excellent artisan sourdough, while The Record Room is the place for a rummage through second-hand vinyl.
What to see and do
Stourhead Gardens in Wiltshire (Photo: John Harper/Getty/Photodisc)
The Palladian manor and glorious gardens of Stourhead lie to the east – you can see the estate’s King Alfred’s Tower from town. It is around a 10-mile loop to walk from Bruton to this 49m-high hilltop folly and back (plus 205 steps to the top). Or it’s a 20-minute drive to Stourhead’s main entrance. Once described as “a living work of art”, the estate is splendid in summer, when its exotic trees are in full leaf and flowers bloom around the lake, temples and grotto. There is also a diverse programme of family events during school holidays.
Where to go for a drink
The arty Roth Bar at Hauser & Wirth serves creative drinks made using Durslade Farm’s own honey, flowers and seasonal foraged ingredients; plus, there is live jazz on Sunday afternoons. Elsewhere, the Blue Ball is a long-neglected 18th-century coaching inn reopened as a pub in 2024 by the team at Number One.
Where to go for dinner
At Briar – the small, bright restaurant attached to No 1 – young, River Cottage-trained chef Sam Lomas serves unfussy small plates, leaning heavily on locally sourced ingredients. The menu changes seasonally, but you can expect the likes of Westcombe cheddar gougères (£6), sirloin with smoked tomatoes (£16) and a standout Somerset apple cake, dripping in butterscotch (£11). With only 18 seats, booking is essential.
Da Costa Restaurant at Hauser & Wirth (Photo: Provided)
Back on Bruton High Street, Matt’s Kitchen – run out of the downstairs of self-taught chef Matt Watson’s home – is open only on Friday and Saturday nights and seats just 22. The five-course dinner is a varied, intimate experience drawing on a range of international culinary influences (£45pp).
The best summer walks
A two-and-a-half-mile walk south to Godminster offers views of Glastonbury Tor. Or hike three miles to Batcombe to refuel at the Michelin-listed Three Horseshoes pub before meandering back.
Three things you might not know about Bruton…
1) Bruton is named for the River Brue, derived from “bryw” – “brisk stream” in Old Welsh, the language of the earliest inhabitants here.
2) During the 17th century, Bruton and the surrounding Selwood area recorded some of England’s most severe witch hunts.
3) Bruton Railway Cutting is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its geologically important Middle Jurassic rocks.
