It borders on the irresistible.

With a thin grilled crust and just the right amount of crisp, it's topped with the perfect blend of cheeses and just the right dots of pomodoro sauce. Add some sweet corn, and you have the most tempting of pizzas.

You may have heard someone, somewhere, disparage the concept of corn on pizza. They know not what they say. It just means more for us.

I was drawn to Bacaro at 262 South Water St. in Providence recently in the hope that their wood-grilled pizza menu would include a corn-topped one. I needn't have worried.

"The corn is from Confreda Farms and first of the season corn hits the menu the week of the Fourth of July," wrote chef/co-owner Brian Kingsford. I emailed him after my visit asking how long my favorite pizza would be on the menu.

Corn season runs into the beginning of October, he added.

Staff from Bacaro go to the farm "every day to get the fresh-picked corn, tomatoes, squash and squash flowers and everything else growing in the season," he added.

While at Bacaro, I noticed their sister restaurant and neighbor Otra, which features cuisine from the Iberian Peninsula, hosts a special event on Thursday, July 24, at 6:30 p.m. It's Paella's on the Patio with Kingsford preparing a wood-grilled paella at the 303 South Main St. restaurant.

There will be Cava and wine pairing to complement the flavors of the seafood dish prepared on a wood-fired grill; a selection of signature tapas including pork belly a la plancha, Iberian ham croquets and bravas and sliced prime sirloin over Otra Romesco; plus dessert of flan Spanish custard. The experience costs $125 and space is limited.

Kingsford has been cooking a lot longer, starting at Al Forno as a teen. He cut his chef teeth there, working with his mentor, the late George Germon, and Johanne Killeen, who still runs the restaurant the couple founded in 1980.

Germon, you no doubt remember, is credited with creating the wood-grilled pizza at Al Forno. You'll also find the corn pizza served there at 577 South Water St.

It was back 21 years ago, when Kingsford, then Al Forno's executive chef and CEO, shared the recipe for a cheese and herb grilled pizza with The Journal. It's time to publish that again.

Prepare your grills.

When learning the technique, keep your first pizzas small. Use only five ounces of dough or so.

The dough

The Al Forno grilled pizza with corn, photographed in 2005. Grilled pizza has been on the menu since the restaurant opened in 1980.

It starts with the dough, made simply with unbleached flour, yeast, salt and water.

Kingsford warned that the flour must be fresh, not past its expiration date. That would change the gluten, and then no matter how hard the yeast worked, the dough would be as dead as yesterday. It needs gluten for elasticity, which will allow the baker to stretch it to that perfect thinness.

Chef Brian Kingsford, co-owner of Bacaro and Otra with Jennifer Matta, will be back at the USA Today Wine & Food Experience on Sept. 27 at the 195 District park. He made two kinds of grilled pizza at last year's event.

The beauty of this recipe is you only need 15 minutes for the dough to rise. Then it sits in an oil bath for 30 minutes.

During that time you can grate the cheeses, make the sauce and ready the grill.

After mixing the dough, place the dough balls in an olive oil bath. Turn to give them a delicate covering of oil. Let rise 30 minutes.

Grilled Pizza

For the dough

2 1/2 teaspoons dry active yeast

2 cups warm water

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

5 cups flour

High quality extra virgin olive oil

Equipment: stand mixer with dough hook

Mix yeast and warm water in a large mixing bowl. Allow to foam. Add salt and then mix in flour with a dough hook. Add more flour if necessary so dough is not sticky.

Allow to sit in bowl for 15 minutes in a warm spot.

Punch down and separate into five balls of 7 1/2 ounces each. Use a kitchen scale.

Soak in oil bath for 30 minutes or more. Roll the dough across the oil on one side and then turn it up to cover the entire piece in a delicate way. Not only does the oil flavor the dough, but it will also help the dough cook.

The dough ingredients here are enough for five pizzas. You can cut the recipe in half.

For the pomodoro sauce

28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes

1/2 to 1 clove of garlic, minced

1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil

Break up tomatoes by hand, set aside.

Heat olive oil in sauce pan and add garlic. Stir and remove from heat before adding tomatoes.

For the cheese blend

Two parts Pecorino Romano

One part Bel Paese

Grate each cheese and mix together. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Ready the dough for grilling

Oil the bottom of a cookie sheet, then press and spread the dough into a free-form shape.

Invert a cookie sheet on which to spread the dough. Oil the sheet first, then place the ball of dough in the center.

With one hand on top of the dough, press down and spread your fingers. Do this until both hands are spreading at the same time. This technique assures you won't rip the dough. The dough takes no particular shape and is meant to be free-form.

Grilling

Cooking over hardwood ensures a hot grill. It also adds flavor. Kingsford suggests building the fire on only half the grill. This will allow cooks to place the grilled dough on an unheated spot for the addition of toppings.

This is the tricky part. Place the dough on the grill from back to front. Have tongs at the ready. Once the dough starts to blister, peek to see if the underside is cooked. If you can see grill marks, flip it over and cook the other side. Then move it to the cool side of the grill.

Grill the dough until the top starts to blister and the bottom shows grill marks. Flip with tongs to cook the other side.

Brush the dough with oil. This will help the cheese melt.

Add cheeses. The selection of cheeses avoids mozzarella, which has too much moisture. Leave the edges untopped. Less is more for ingredients on a grilled pizza.

Spoon on pomodoro sauce and sprinkle with herbs of your choice. Maybe parsley or sage. Drizzle a little extra-virgin olive oil on the top of the pizza and return it to a spot over the hot charcoal.

After dough is grilled, the first step is to add cheese. Then spoon on sauce and sprinkle with herbs and oil. Rotate over coals to heat evenly.

Place the pizza so that only half is over the heat. With the tongs, rotate it almost constantly so it heats evenly.

"You've got to watch it all the time," said Kingsford. You want the cheese to melt evenly.

Remove from heat to a platter. Top with a handful of freshly cut scallions, if you like.

To add corn, boil fresh corn three minutes and cut kernels off the cob. Add it atop the cheese and sauce.

Meat variation: If you like prosciutto, add it after cooking, gently laying down each slice on the hot pizza. The heat of the cheese will melt the fat and warm the meat.

This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Grilled pizza season is here. Bacaro's chef teaches you how to make it