Bacon, bratwursts and burger buns: Magpie by Burgertory in Taman OUG is a meat lover’s paradise
Malay Mail
KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 19 — Some meals demand the formality of cutlery — the polite lift of a fork, the careful placement of a serviette. This is not one of them.
The Bacon Madness Burger demands both hands, sleeves rolled, and a willingness to lose a little dignity. Smoked cheese melts into the warm bun, wrapping the tender pork patty in mellow richness. Crispy onion adds a structural crunch, while candied bacon scatters sweet, smoky notes — a flicker of black pepper keeping them in line.
This is Magpie by Burgertory — new name, familiar spirit. I remember Burgertory from its days in SS15, Subang Jaya, back when the artisanal burger wave was cresting.
Now finding a new home in OUG, the shop gets plenty of natural light via windows and skylights. There’s the same meticulous attention to meat, bun, and everything that fills the space between.
The space gets plenty of natural light via windows and skylights. — Picture by CK Lim
For a middle lot, the dining area feels unexpectedly airy yet also cosy, thanks to warm bulbs under woven shades.
It’s a sweltering afternoon outside, so we share a jug of Draught Summer Kombucha. Bright with citrus and speckled with basil seeds, this refreshing drink gets a much appreciated lift from mint leaves.
Back to the burgers. Whilst I celebrated a riot of pork patty and bacon bits, my dining companion leaned towards the sea — or rather, the Chipotle Prawn Burger.
A jug of Draught Summer Kombucha. — Picture by CK Lim
Here, the prawn patty has a sweet, buttery undertone; its mellow chipotle heat unfolding slowly rather than rushing forward. Cabbage slaw sits on top, less of a garnish than a necessary counterweight.
Even the fries served alongside the burgers are worth noting: golden, crisp without being greasy, more than holding their own against the main acts.
Indeed, for lovers of pork burgers, the menu doesn’t disappoint. The Swine Bacon & Cheese Burger features streaky bacon and cheddar while the Big Fry Belly Burger surprises with a crunch that yields to perfectly rendered fat.
Chipotle Prawn Burger. — Picture by CK Lim
Across the board, patties are juicy and well-seasoned. If you must have your beef, The Pig & Cow is your go-to: a savoury trifecta of beef, bacon and onion rings. Almost over the top — but not quite.
We admire the delicate balancing act: the portion sizes are generous without tipping into excess.
It’s not just burgers, of course. From the kitchen, a plate of Iberico Pork Ribs passes my table, trailing a ribbon of smoke-sweet aroma. German and Thuringer bratwursts are served with sharing in mind — robust and a perfect pairing for an icy Weihenstephaner.
The tempting deli display. — Picture by CK Lim
Near the counter, a deli display tempts the takeaway-minded: New Zealand Garlic Lamb Chops; Cajun Ring Sausages; smoky Chorizo with an unexpected spicy kick. I spot a dry-aged Australian ribeye, its marbling a promise of indulgence.
Such an enticement: all the meat we could bring home. Or we could simply return to dine here.
Either way, the restaurant’s motto — emblazoned on the long feature wall like a hypnotic suggestion — puts it best: The Best Memories Are Made Around The Table.
The restaurant’s motto on the wall. — Picture by CK Lim
Whether we share another Bacon Madness Burger or bring a chain of bratwursts home to simmer then grill, it doesn’t matter so long as we are creating more memories — delectable ones, of course — around our table.
Magpie by Burgertory
25, Jln Hujan,
Taman Overseas Union, KL.
Open daily 11am-10pm
Phone: 011-3316 7582
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
