Let’s get to dipping.

Welcome to the Scene Report, a column in which Eater captures the vibe of a notable Texas restaurant at a specific moment in time.

Birrieria y Taqueria Cortez was perhaps the most unexpected restaurant in Texas to earn a Michelin recommendation in the first-ever ceremony for the state in 2024. Not because a taco joint shouldn’t get Michelin attention — they should and, arguably, too few did. This birrieria is one that many in DFW were unfamiliar with this spot prior to its name being called by the Michelin powers that be, and it didn’t make the list of any food journalists making Michelin predictions, including Eater.

Owner Rogelio Cortez Jr. started his all-beef birria service as a food truck and opened Birrieria y Taqueria Cortez in 2021, during the height of the COVID pandemic. Amusingly, the Michelin guide seems to think “birria” means beef, which it does not — it is a term coined to describe the tougher, more unpleasant cuts of meat, which often come from goat. Birria originates from Tijuana, where Don Guadalupe Zárate is thought to have created the dish in the 1950s. While Zárate started with goat, he switched to beef quickly “for a greater yield and profit,” Bill Esparza writes for Eater, as he realized that the leanness of goat did not lend itself to an output that would meet the demand. The dish made its way to the U.S. in the early 2010s, crossing the border to L.A. and creating a phenomenon, with quesabirria (grilled tacos filled with marinated meat and molten cheese) gaining enough popularity to become the birria default in the minds of Americans. It hit a tipping point all across the country, and in the Metroplex, around 2018.

The Vibe

Inside is low-key, in the sense that it doesn’t offer reservations (large groups can call to make one) and isn’t fancy. A wall outside the front doors is emblazoned with the word “Cortez” in gold script over a fake plant wall to welcome diners in with what could be an Instagram moment — not bad branding at all, considering the spike in traffic the taqueria saw after its Michelin recognition. Its dining room walls are a high saturation point of screaming red with orange undertones and airbrushed murals. Catch a glimpse of its giant Virgin Mary mural when going to the women’s restroom, tucked away in an alcove that, ironically, overlooks the inside bar. Tables are covered in a rainbow top with “Birriera Cortez” adorning the middle. Outside, the expansive patio features seating and tables that match the flamin’ hot red colors inside. Napkins come from the table’s no-frills paper towel holders, the servers look like teenagers, and the decor is homespun. That said, the service is excellent, and the food is well worth the low, low price.

When I landed there at 2 p.m. for lunch on a Wednesday, it was still fairly busy with about a third of the inside tables occupied and a few folks sitting on the patio. It was staffed well, with multiple servers at the door greeting incoming diners, and the sections seemed to be intentionally small so that customers get a lot of attention while ordering and eating. Sports were on all the interior television screens.

What to Eat

Birrieria y Taqueria Cortez offers a small menu that features only beef. The star of the show is the quesabirria platter, which is served with consumé. The tortillas were crispy and the birria juicy but, at least during my visit, there wasn’t enough marinade on either to get across the spicy excitement I’d hoped for. The cook on the beef, however, is excellent — the texture is soft and melts in your mouth, though the exterior could have been a bit crispier. Diners say the consumé here is the thing that wins people over, and while it was hot and not overly greasy, showing that it comes from a well-composed recipe, I found it bland; I hoped for more peppers and adobo from the marinade, and in the consumé, to give it some heat. However, this meat and the entire meal seemed to be made with lighter palettes in mind. The sides of Mexican rice and pinto beans were unremarkable, but the value for your money is good. For under $20, I got a can of Dr. Pepper and a heavy plate loaded with food.

The menu also features birria tacos without cheese, and a whole host of Mexican dishes made using birria meat: quesadillas, tortas, burritos, street tacos, chimichangas, tostadas, and flautas. If you’re feeling unorthodox, order the birria pizza or the birria sliders.

What to Drink

The drinks menu has everything a taqueria should: Mexican Coke, Jarritos, Topo Chico, aguas frescas in flavors like horchata and jamaica, and more. The bar offers the basics — margaritas, one- and two-ingredient drinks, and a slushie machine that spins out frozen margaritas, but honestly, who needs a cocktail when there are aguas frescas and Mexican Coke?

Prices are good

Those looking for Michelin food on a budget should scoot this spot to the top of their list. Birria tacos and quesabirria are under $4 each. The most expensive item here is the $35 sampler plate, a spread featuring an 8-inch birria pizza, an order of flautas, two quesobirria tacos, and consumé.