Scenic Nymph Falls near Comox, Vancouver Island.

The city and island of Vancouver both owe their names to British sea captain George Vancouver, whose exploration of Northwest waters dates to the 1790s.

It’s hard to imagine the challenges the HMS Discovery’s crew faced on that voyage. What a contrast with modern-day explorers, who need only point the car north from the Portland area in the morning and find themselves in one of North America’s most spectacular cities by mid-afternoon.

My wife, Mica, and I did so in late May for a long weekend in Vancouver and four more days on Vancouver Island. Part of the attraction was the short, deliciously sweet spot prawn season (it’s run its course – too quickly – but see accompanying story to plan a visit next year).

Mostly we sought a weeklong break from the ordinary – a chance to recharge amid the contrasts of a vibrant city and the island’s serene natural surroundings. Summer is delightful in British Columbia.

And, it must be noted, the U.S. dollar continues to stretch a long way there. As I write this, the Canadian dollar is worth about 73 U.S. cents. Our car came back laden with Canadian goodies (note: after a 48-hour trip each traveler is allowed $800 in duty- and tax-free goods, except alcohol and tobacco).

We returned a couple of pounds heavier, but relaxed and with a renewed appreciation for Canada’s scenic beauty and the hospitality of our northern neighbors.

Cycling, parks and markets in Vancouver

Downtown Vancouver has everything from frenetic, high-end shopping in and around Robson Street to the tranquility of the historic Christ Church Cathedral and the blooming beauty of VanDusen Botanical Garden.

We mounted up on two wheels to experience Vancouver’s comprehensive system of cycling paths. The ride to Stanley Park and back is glorious, with views of the greenery, and waterways lined with boats.

It’s tempting to spend the entire afternoon browsing the goods – edible and otherwise – at the Granville Island Public Market. The market is mobbed on warm summer days, and parking is at a premium, so bikes are a great way to arrive.

Further afield, the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park draws visitors for its high-adrenaline walks along cliffsides, over a river and among the treetops.

The Douglas, centrally located adjacent to BC Place, was our base for a couple of nights. Perched above the Parq Casino, it’s modern and elegant, and boasts a solid breakfast restaurant in Honey Salt and the special-occasion dinner spot of The Victor.

Himalayan poppies at VanDusen Botanical Garden in Vancouver.

City views from the hotel’s upper-floor rooms are amazing. As is the calming spa, where a hot-stone massage will work out the kinks of travel.

From the tasteful setting to the service to Executive Chef John Chuy’s inspired takes on meat and seafood, the experience was flawless. Think tenderloin steak with a peppercorn sauce, pan-seared scallops, and a garlic-and-gruyere baked brioche that we devoured.

Himalayan poppies at VanDusen Botanical Garden in Vancouver.

Spouts and spas on Vancouver Island

The ferry crossing from Horseshoe Bay (north of Vancouver) to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island is a seamless 100 minutes aboard B.C. Ferries. From Nanaimo, it’s a little over 90 minutes smooth driving up to Campbell River, set about halfway up Vancouver Island’s eastern coast.

On the map, the island looks like a huge (12,000 square miles) puzzle piece set adrift from the Canadian mainland. In between the two runs the Salish Sea, a narrow strip of the Pacific Ocean.

Campbell River (pop. 38,000) is reminiscent of Oregon coastal logging and fishing towns like Coos Bay. We were a couple of weeks early for salmon fishing though, so took to the water in search of whales instead.

Our excursion with Homalco Tours took us through a patchwork of islands until, in a spot near Sonora Island, we spotted a succession of whale spouts. Getting closer, we identified first humpbacks, then a small pod of orcas feeding in the rapids.

Campbell River is home to Elk Falls Park, where a thundering waterfall is the reward after a pleasant forest hike on well-marked gravel trails.

Afterward we stopped for steaming bowls of pho at the remarkable Nhau Vietnamese Kitchen & Bar, which owner Luc Do opened in 2023. The small space is big on taste.

Then back to Naturally Pacific Resort, a welcoming boutique property that opened in May 2024. We soaked in the mineral pool, challenged each other at the virtual driving range, and dug into Executive Chef Ryan Watson’s modern steakhouse menu at the on-site Carve Kitchen + Meatery.

Broiled spot prawns at The Victor restaurant in Vancouver.

About halfway between Campbell River and Nanaimo sit the neighboring communities of Courtenay and Comox. Nearby, Nymph Falls Nature Park attracts hikers for its forest trail system.

An appetizer medley including spot prawns at CHJ Bistro in Steveston.

Courtenay’s cute downtown looks as if it’s straight out of 1953, with charming shops like the Tea Centre, with its wall of loose-leaf teas. Or the Laughing Oyster Bookshop, where bookseller Paula Purcell described the area’s rapid growth.

Prawns On The Spot does a booming business at Stevestons Fishermans Wharf.

“A lot of people come for a visit and end up moving here,” she said. “If you like the outdoors and recreation, it’s a wonderful place to be. We also have a lot of places that pamper you.”

Ah, yes. That was our ticket: The Kingfisher Pacific Resort & Spa proved to be an absolute trip highlight. From our waterfront room we watched bald eagles zip by, and gather by the dozens at low tide.

Fresh produce at Vancouvers Granville Island Public Market.

We ambled around the gardens. Forgot about the time. Rose late for breakfast. Sat by the firepits. Ate a series of indulgent meals, from caprese salad to black truffle risotto at the onsite Ocean7 restaurant and AQUA Bistro & Wine Bar.

Other than at meals, we often padded about in swimsuits and sandals, wrapped in fluffy white robes. Along with everyone else, we were there for the heralded Pacific Mist Spa. It’s home to a couple of unique water-driven experiences: immersive hydrotherapy sessions that trace a route through an underground grotto, and a brand-new series of “Healing Caves.”

Beaver Lake on Vancouvers Stanley Park.

The two spa sessions are quite distinct, but what they share are soaking opportunities in mineral baths, saunas and heated pools. And the occasional plunge into a frigid environment.

The experiences were like nothing we’d ever done. All these generations after Capt. Vancouver’s exploration, these northern waters still hold surprises.