Smoke and sourdough: How Neighbourwood became Bukit Mertajam’s home for fire, flour and family-style shared plates
Malay Mail
BUKIT MERTAJAM, July 31 — Neighbourwood isn’t trying to be the next “it” place.
Tucked in Bukit Mertajam, Penang, the grill house and bakery that chef Sean Khaw runs with his wife YY, an accomplished baker, is simply what they wished their neighbourhood had: honest cooking touched by woodsmoke, bread with a proper tang, and a space where patrons can enjoy family-style shared plates.
Sean explains, “The word ‘neighbour’ is a concept that comes from Bukit Mertajam, where it is all about the local community. We want to create a welcoming space where local families and neighbours gather over great food. We also want to integrate the grilling concept in most of our food, hence we make it into a grill house.”
From humble beginnings in his grandma’s kitchen, Sean now has his own grill-centric restaurant. — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
That love of cooking began early. He recalls, “I came from humble beginnings where I spent most of my childhood in my grandma’s kitchen.”
After graduating from a culinary institute in Penang in 2012, he spent years abroad, sharpening his craft at Saint Pierre with Chef Emmanuel Stroobant and Corner House with Chef Jason Tan in Singapore, before moving on to Hong Kong as sous chef at Bistro Du Vin.
“When my true passion called, I returned to my homeland and opened my own restaurant called Neighbourwood in 2020,” he says.
YY, who heads the bakery arm, followed a parallel path. She says, “I always had a bakery dream since I was young. I went to baking school and worked in bakeries and patisseries for a few years after graduating. I decided to open a restaurant and bakery concept with Sean in 2020.”
YY heads the bakery arm, producing fresh loaves of sourdough and focaccia. — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
Bread isn’t merely an add-on but a critical element of the entire project. Indeed, for many, YY’s sourdough bakery has become a signature of Neighbourwood.
She says, “Sourdough bread is always my love. There are only a few sourdough bakeries in Bukit Mertajam. Therefore, we wanted the locals to try more varieties of sourdough breads here. We try to offer freshly baked goods that pair beautifully with the dish to create a complete dining experience.”
The loaves – crust crackling, crumb open and fragrant – often leave the restaurant under customers’ arms, destined for home tables. For YY, each one is part of the dining experience as much as any grilled dish.
Prep work in the kitchen (left). Burrata Bangkuang (right). — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
For the couple, Neighbourwood is not just a place to enjoy good food from the grill and the bakery, but also a space for people to come together and unwind while watching the prep work in the open kitchen.
Smoke, sourdough and socialise, if you will.
Fresh squid benefits from some smoky char on the grill. — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
Regulars return for favourites such as the Burrata Bangkuang, the fresh cream and curds sandwiched between slices of jícama; the Grilled Squid, where the freshly caught calamari benefits from some char on the grill; and the straightforward pleasures of a Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly, deeply savoury and smoky in equal measure.
One standout is the Fish En Papillote, steamed until just tender. (En papillote simply means “in paper” or “in parchment” in French.)
Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly (left). Fish En Papillote (right). — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
Sean says, “We use fresh fish from the market, incorporating our homemade chilli sauce – Asian style – and different kinds of herbs and lemon.”
It’s the sort of dish that captures the couple’s approach: familiar yet distinctive, rooted in place but open to influence.
Sean says, “Every dish reflects the passion and dedication of our team, who work tirelessly behind the scenes to bring exceptional food to the table. It may not be perfect every time, but with each meal, we promise to give our best. One step at a time, one dish at a time, we strive for greatness.”
A space where patrons can enjoy family-style shared plates. — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
This philosophy guides how Sean designs the menu. Plates are meant for sharing, inspired by European techniques but seasoned with Asian instincts. He relies on produce sourced from nearby farms.
He explains, “We always wanted Bukit Mertajam to have something different when it comes to food, and at the same time, I wanted to support local farmers.”
A day at Neighbourwood begins early. Sean says, “First, I start the day with a cup of coffee, then check reservations and requirements, before a briefing with the kitchen and service team. And, of course, quality control.”
Sean sources produce from nearby farms to use in Neighbourwood’s kitchen. — Picture courtesy of Neighbourwood
Expansion isn’t on the horizon. Sean laughs when asked about opening another outlet: “For now, we say no to open another outlet. We are trying to focus on what we are doing now, keep improving, enjoying the process and providing a better experience for the locals.”
Neighbourwood today is exactly what Sean and YY set out to create: a neighbourhood restaurant and bakery grounded in community, fuelled by the craft of fire and flour, and run with a quiet, persistent dedication – one dish and one loaf at a time.
Neighbourwood
3427, Jalan Kulim,
Taman Bukit Mas,
Bukit Mertajam, Penang
Open Thu-Mon 11:30am–3pm and 6pm–10:30pm; Tue & Wed closed
Phone: 012-903 0862
