Aja Cohen of Teaneck used to spend hours scouring department store racks for activewear that was modest but also comfortable enough for her daily workouts.

Out in Central Pennsylvania, meanwhile, Ayana Ife was also sifting through shelves of local stores for clothing that was fashionable but concealing.

Cohen is an Orthodox Jew, and Ife is a practicing Muslim. The two share a belief that you don't have to bare it all to be beautiful. Both wanted to help women achieve their fitness goals without squeezing into body-hugging shorts or tank tops.

Frustrated by the dearth of sportswear for their observant communities, they created brands catering to active women who want to look stylish without flashing their flesh — part of a fashion sector that has grown along with the two religious groups.

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Cohen, 42, an athlete who competes in half-marathons and teaches yoga, said that when she sought concealing garb that gave a range of motion during grueling workouts, it felt like she was searching for a unicorn.

If she managed to score an outfit that kept her covered, she found an array of other issues: "The fabric was too heavy and didn’t have any performance features like wicking or anti-microbial" features. Or the design lacked fashion appeal.

Her concept was a line of loose-fitting tops and bottoms that concealed without constricting. The collection is available on the company website, Amazon and via Racefaster's online running store. Prices for her products range from $14 for a tote bag to $146 for a mesh dress. The brand has been doing steady business, with sales growing about 10% annually, Cohen said.

Her target demographic was initially religious women, including Jews, Muslims and Christians. But Cohen has also heard from customers who suffer from body dysmorphia, those who want to ward off the sun's rays and athletes trying to avoid unwanted attention at the gym, she said.

Women in religious communities have been covering up for centuries: Islam, Judaism and some Christian denominations require adherents to avoid excessive exposure of the body, though they vary in their particulars.

Labels like Transcendent Active and Ife's Ayana Active are a part of a growing market, with some experts saying this quieter, more conservative fashion choice isn't just in vogue, it's becoming more mainstream.

Ayana Ife, creator of the Ayana Active brand

Even Lauren Sanchez, who is known for oversharing her, uh, tan lines, strolled down the aisle at her June 27 wedding to Jeff Bezos in a long-sleeved lace Dolce & Gabbana wedding gown that earned praise for its elegant and demure cut.

The modesty movement is primarily driven by the growing global Muslim population, which stands at 2 billion today and is projected to reach 31% of the world’s population by 2050, said Achim Berg, founder and managing director of FashionSIGHTS, a corporate think tank devoted to exploring the future of the fashion industry.

How big is the modest fashion market?

Overall, so-called modest fashion accounts for 10% to 15% of total global fashion and luxury sales, with a strong post-pandemic rebound driving total spending to $318 billion in 2023, Berg said. "Significant growth potential remains, with modest fashion expected to reach $473 billion by 2030," he added.

Islam, which has roughly 4 million adherents in the U.S., is the fastest-growing religion in America, according to the Pew Research Center.

The global Muslim community "forms one of the world’s youngest and most dynamic consumer segments — offering significant long-term potential for brands," Berg said.

The 2020 U.S. Jewish population estimate, meanwhile, is 7.5 million and although only 10% of the community is Orthodox, that denomination is experiencing the fastest growth rate in the Jewish world.

Major brands, such as ASOS Design, Uniqlo, Zara and COS, have all offered fashion with dropped hemlines, longer sleeves and higher necklines, and in 2018 Macy's launched the Verona Collection, its first modest clothing line, which includes abayas (robe-like garments worn by Muslim women) and an assortment of hijabs (Muslim headscarves).

A growing array of brands also cater to demand for less revealing workout attire. Nike sells a Pro Hijab and modest swimwear collection, and Adidas and Lands' End, recognizing the expanding market, also offer fuller coverage options.

In 2022, The Address, which bills itself as the country's first department store designed for the modest fashion consumer, opened at American Dream, the megamall in Bergen County. The shop features a mix of dress and activewear collections for women, teens and children that have longer sleeves and lower hemlines than those found at the typical store.

Anaya Ife's 'values-driven' sportswear

The most popular item from the Ayana Active line is this tunic, photo credit by HawwaMphotography

Ife, based in Danville, Pennsylvania, launched her Ayana Active line in April. Since then, it has been doing brisk business online. Ife is exploring broader retail options, with plans to enter department stores and boutiques, she said.

"Our typical customer is a values-driven woman in her late 20s to 40s who wants high-functional, modest sportswear," said Ife, 35, a Muslim who covers herself from head to toe. "A lot of women want clothing that's fashionable but that also represents their values."

Ife, whose family is from Trinidad, grew up in a Muslim family in upstate New York, where her mother worked as a seamstress specializing in African-style clothing. Fascinated, she watched her mom at work and learned how to sew at age 6. She began designing and making her own apparel in her teens when she couldn't find any "cool clothes" in stores that would also keep her covered.

In 2017, while living in Utah, she was the runner-up on the TV series "Project Runway," where she earned praise for chic designs demonstrating that a woman "can be modest and sexy" at the same time, she said.

The concept of covering one's body, she added, "reflects strength, intention and self-respect." She hopes to create a space where consumers who don't want to overexpose themselves can feel more empowered.

Streets of Teaneck inspired Aja Cohen

Cohen, a New Jersey native, grew up in a close-knit Italian Catholic family. Though her parents took her to church, she never felt connected to religious life. That changed in college, when a Jewish boyfriend piqued her interest in Judaism. Although their romance fizzled, her feeling for the faith continued to grow. She began attending Jewish studies courses on a regular basis and converted in 2006.

She subsequently met a man at synagogue who was also an athlete interested in spiritual growth. They clicked and, after their 2010 marriage, moved to Teaneck. There, Cohen noticed Orthodox women who were walking, jogging and pushing strollers — clad in knee-length skirts, long sleeves and leggings to conform to the faith's modesty guidelines. Their religious lifestyle didn't hold them back from their athletic routines, but they lacked stylish options, Cohen thought.

A graduate of New York's Pratt Institute School of Design, Cohen had worked for years in corporate fashion, planning collections for athletic brands such as Converse, Fila and Champion. She knew she had the expertise to create something better. But the mother of three was busy working long hours in the corporate fashion industry.

She finally took a step back during the pandemic. It was an opportune moment, she said, to reassess her life and create something for her own community.

Beatie Deutsch, the American-Israeli marathon champion, wearing a Transcendent Active skirt photo by Aja Cohen

"I asked myself, 'What am I creating, and who am I creating it for?'"

"Activewear is often sexualized without any regard for the actual workout," Cohen said. "To fit into the yoga community, you had to wear these revealing outfits while posing in a pretzel-like position. It was the furthest thing from the yoga that I fell in love with."

Among her fans are Beatie Deutsch, the five-time national marathon champion of Israel. She said her Transcendent Active skirt, which Cohen sent her gratis, is so comfortable that she wore it while running the Berlin and Jerusalem marathons.

"It's super lightweight and amazing for running in the heat," said Deutsch, who has had endorsements from Nike and Adidas. "The materials are such high quality, and the skirts fit me perfectly."

Most importantly, she added, with knee-length skirts and three-quarter shirts, "everything is designed for the modest woman."