Walk along the beach
Feast like a king at the Inn at the Sticks
Explore Llansteffan Castle
Discover Dylan Thomas and Llansteffan’s literary ties
Go on Coastal walks

Lovely Llansteffan is situated on the northern shore of the River Tywi estuary, where the waters meet Carmarthen Bay, offering sweeping views and an award-winning rustic pub serving seriously good eats.

As the road dips and curves through the Carmarthenshire countryside, you'll start to see a stretch of golden sand unfurl along the shoreline, framed by the calm waters of the Tywi Estuary. In the distance, perched proudly on a hilltop, are the ruins of an ancient castle, weathered but still commanding the scenic landscape.

This is Llansteffan, a charming and underrated Welsh village with sandy beaches, shops, pubs and literary ties perfect for a foodie coastal break.

The ancient woodland walk with river views and a proper pub stop
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Despite its chilled ambience, the small village has a rich history and ties to Welsh literary titan Dylan Thomas.

One of the most prominent landmarks in Llansteffan is its iconic castle. Perched high on the headland, Llansteffan Castle commands an impressive view of the craggy coastal landscape.

Built in the 12th century by the Normans, the castle’s strategic location atop a hill overlooking the estuary made it a crucial fortification in medieval Wales.

Like most pretty coastal spots in Wales, summer is the busy season here, with families filling the beach and tiny village during the busy school holidays, so now might be the time to visit before class is dismissed.

Here's why Llannsteffan should be on your travel list.

Walk along the beach

If you visit during the offseason or early in the morning, you'll often have this blustery shoreline to yourself

Strut along a stretch of golden sand, firm enough to build the most epic sandcastles but soft enough to sink your feet into as you stroll

This weeping shoreline is quieter before the summer break, making it a peaceful expanse where you can stroll along the wind-whipped coastline without the crowds.

What makes Llansteffan Beach extra special is its variety. At one end, you’ve got the main stretch with its wide-open space; at the other, you’ll find little rock pools waiting to be explored at low tide.

Next to the beach, you'll find a tea room (which doubles as a beach shop) where you can grab coffee and cake and a fish and chip shop for a seaside fish supper.

If you're a fan of outdoor cooking, you can always make your own coffee on the beach using a 'Swedish torch'. Just remember to clean up after yourself.

Feast like a king at the Inn at the Sticks

whipped feta with honey glazed carrots and basil gel

The Inn at the Sticks has received numerous accolades, including being named the Good Food Guide's Best Local Restaurant in Wales in 2024 and listed as one of the Guardian's 20 best UK foodie breaks.

The Llansteffan Landmark has been a pub since 1809, then known as the Union Hall Inn, and has been a hotel since 1881.

It's now run by partners Teej and Tracey and was refurbished in June 2023, with a strong emphasis on retaining the pub's charm and character across the restaurant and snug rooms upstairs.

Food is a real highlight here, with the kitchen headed up by pub co-founder Teej. Expect small plates of the finest Welsh produce with zingy international twists and knowledgeable staff who know their way around a wine list.

The pub's commitment to local produce means the menu changes seasonally, always offering something new and delicious. Think Cockle popcorn, Atlantic Edge oysters, roasted carrots on whipped feta, Asian sticky Pork, and Welsh beef and perl las pie.

With perfectly plated dishes and a welcoming atmosphere, it's easy to see why it's one of the best places to eat in Carmarthenshire. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here

Explore Llansteffan Castle

Llansteffan Castle

Rising proudly above the village, Llansteffan Castle is an unmissable part of any visit. The 12th-century castle is situated on a headland overlooking the Tywi Estuary and Carmarthen Bay.

It’s more than just a picturesque ruin; it’s a gateway into Wales' tumultuous past, with a history that stretches back centuries. The dreamy castle stands on a site that has been defended since prehistoric times.

Today, the remnants of Llansteffan Castle provide visitors with a vivid sense of medieval life. Its imposing gatehouse, once the main point of entry, still stands as a powerful testament to its defensive capabilities, complete with arrow slits and strong walls.

Inside, the remaining towers and walls of the inner and outer wards offer insight into the castle's layout, which would have housed garrisons and served as a residence for the local lord.

The panoramic views from the castle’s position are glorious. Stretching over Carmarthen Bay and the surrounding countryside, they offer a glimpse of the site's once-strategic importance.

One notable historical event was the castle’s capture by Rhys ap Gruffudd, the Welsh Prince of Deheubarth, in 1146, marking a key moment in the ongoing struggle for control between the Normans and the Welsh.

Although the castle saw action during subsequent centuries, including during Owain Glyndŵr's rebellion in the early 15th century, it eventually fell into disrepair, becoming a romantic ruin by the 16th century.

Inside, you can roam the grounds, climb the old battlements, and take in the panoramic views stretching across the swirling waters. On a clear day, you can see for miles, making it a perfect spot for photography or just soaking in the Carmarthenshire scenery.

After your walk and castle exploration, get lunch and a pint at the traditional Castle Inn, serving lush pub grub and Welsh ales in the heart of the village.

Discover Dylan Thomas and Llansteffan’s literary ties

An Aerial Photograph taken on the River Towy Estuary, the sand-banks and shallow river channel leading a view towards llansteffan Castle set high on hillside.

Llansteffan isn’t just about history and coastal landscapes—it’s also closely linked to one of Wales’ most famous poets, Dylan Thomas. Thomas spent many childhood holidays in the area, staying with his family nearby Fernhill. His poem Fern Hill is a nostalgic reflection on those carefree days, capturing the sense of freedom and innocence he experienced in the countryside around Llansteffan.

For literary fans, visiting the village offers a chance to walk in Thomas’s footsteps. The area’s natural beauty and quiet, contemplative atmosphere make it easy to see how Thomas found inspiration here. He even began his poem Fern Hill, saying, “Now as I was young and easy under the apple boughs.”

One local landmark, the now-closed Edwinsford Arms, even features in his short story A Visit to Grandpa’s, giving the village a direct link to his work.

In his later years, Thomas would row across the Tâf Estuary to Llansteffan to meet his father for a pint at the Edwinsford. Though the pub is no longer there, you can still enjoy a drink in the village at the Inn at the Sticks, where the warm, welcoming atmosphere might remind you of the places a young Dylan once visited.

Go on Coastal walks

The Llansteffan Circular Walk is one of the standout routes along this path

Llansteffan's sandy beach is also popular for its connection to the Wales Coast Path, a national walking trail that winds along the glorious Welsh coastline.

The Llansteffan Circular Walk is one of the standout routes along this path, offering a varied landscape that includes woodlands, open countryside, and stunning views of both the estuary and Carmarthen Bay.

This 5-mile trail is ideal for walkers of all abilities. It offers an excellent opportunity to appreciate the area's incredible natural beauty, from birds nesting along the shore to ancient oaks and vibrant Welsh wildflowers.

The surrounding countryside is equally diverse, with farmlands, wooded areas, and the occasional stream adding to the area's rural beauty.

Changing seasons bring different charms: in spring, the countryside is alive with wildflowers, while in autumn, the leaves turn to rich golds and reds, making it a perfect time for fall photography.