Ranking All 28 Watches From Pharrell's Latest Blockbuster Auction
Thinking about anything in binary terms is usually a fool’s errand, but the way we see it there are two kinds of auctions: Joopiter auctions and everything else. The house, founded by Pharrell Williams, specializes in campaigns that feel more like experiences than transactions. They’ve given buyers the chance to raid Kid Cudi’s closet and shut down New York’s Morton street for their first-ever car auction in May of 2024. Now, Joopiter's kicking off a new auction, one full of a century’s worth of top-tier timepieces.
Dubbed “The Art of Time: Rare & Coveted Watches,” this isn’t an auction full of your standard Rolex Paul Newman Daytonas. Rather than pleasing the horological nerds, the Joopiter auction spotlights watches slightly off the beaten path. Even the watches from big names like Patek Philippe aren’t the models you’d expect to find during other auction houses. The Gondolo with an onyx dial is proof of that. Further proof this isn’t your average auction: not one, not two, but three of Franck Muller fantastically ‘90s watches! Not every single one of these is a must-have for enthusiasts, but it’s a truly special collection of watches for anyone looking to better learn how to appreciate the art behind watchmaking would do well to check out. These are the watches of ‘The Art of Time’ ranked from not-quite-our-tempo to must-have.
28. Ebel Sports Classic Chronograph ref. 8134901
Unfortunately, we had to start somewhere, even if this does have Zenith’s legendary El Primero movement in it. The bar is high.
27. Hermés Ceinture Concealed Dial
It’s a cool piece, but has nothing on the absolute murderer’s row up for auction.
26. Blancpain Villeret Split Second Chronograph ref. 1186
Blancpain is best known for its Fifty Fathoms dive watch. This Villeret is proof that the brand’s pieces look just as good above sea level.
25. Louis Vuitton Monterey II ‘LV2’
This watch had a huge moment about this time two years ago, but has cooled considerably since then. Still, it’s extra special to see it come up at the auction house owned by Pharrell, who is also the men’s creative director at Louis Vuitton. The designer-slash-everything even put these watches in LV’s fall/winter 2025 show
24. Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 'Khanjar'
The Khanjar engraving on the back of the caseback can make any Rolex super collectible, even this otherwise standard-issue Air-King
23. Richard Mille RM030 PSG
Richard Mille’s futuristic sport watches are capable of enduring high-intensity tennis matches and Formula 1 racing. So it makes sense that the brand would partner up with some of the biggest names in the sports world. In this case, the brand worked with soccer club Paris Saint-Germain FC on a handsome all-blue version of its RM030.
22. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Ref. 26587TI.OO.D010CA.01
While most skeleton watches are an acquired taste, this one from Audemars Piguet is so nice-looking it doesn’t take much getting used to.
21. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56175ST “Yves Klein”
Everyone loves a luxury-sport watch with an integrated bracelet and navy blue dial. This one distinguishes itself just enough with that pretty Yves Klein shade of blue.
20. Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038
A beautiful watch that, even with the rare pinball dial, feels like something anyone who’s even lightly into watches has seen before.
19. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56175ST
We’re in the midst of a tiny watch renaissance. Maybe the 33-mm AP 5617ST’s moment is finally here.
18. Franck Muller Crazy Hours
It’s sure to be one of the more divisive watches in this group, but you can’t say it’s not a fun one.
17. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Ref. 77151
This one packs the punch of a watch twice its size with a stunning dial and a fun green strap.
16. Franck Muller Master Banker
The Master Banker says that you’re business up front, but the piece's all-over blue color scheme implies that you might be down to party in the back.
15. Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Ref. 1752
Franck Muller timepieces can veer on the louder side, but they really shine when kept simple.
14. Otsuka Lotec No. 7.5
13. Otsuka Lotec No. 6
Otsuka Lotec might not be the most recognizable name in this auction, but it’s one that sets Joopiter’s auction apart from your run-of-the-mill watch sale. The cult Japanese watchmaker produces just a handful of pieces every year for a loyal following, one that would very much prefer it stay an underground name in the watch world. Some things deserve to be gatekept. Take advantage of this brief moment in which Otsuka Lotec isn’t.
12. Bueche-Girod Maxi Oval
So pretty I damn near have a crush on this watch.
11. Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6104R-001
A watch that displays a full celestial chart as well as the phases and orbit of the moon is not to be missed, especially when Patek puts it all in such beautiful, gem-set packaging.
10. Rolex Daytona Ref. 16519
One of the more stunning selections from the Daytona’s Zenith era, with a beautiful blue dial and a strap to match.
9. Gerald Genta Ref. G3328.7
The man behind the Royal Oak was far from a one-trick pony. His namesake brand contained absolute gems like this G3328.7.
8. Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18248
It takes a lot for a Day-Date to show you something you’ve never seen it do before. With a bark dial and bark-textured center links to match, this one pulls off that tall task.
7. Patek Philippe Gondolo
George Jetson’s watch if it slayed.
6. Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 484
Nearly a hundred years old, this Patek 484 is the sort of top-tier grail most collectors only dream of adding to their collection. This is the watch that preceded the now-and-forever hot reference 96.
5. Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18366 ‘Platinum Baguette Lapis Lazuli’
This is the dial of a lifetime. I’m going to be dreaming about this dial for the rest of my life.
4. Audemars Piguet Bamboo ‘Black Diamond’
This is a watch you assemble a crew to carry out an elaborate heist over.
3. Cartier Tank Cintrée Ref. WGTA0090
Don’t bother looking for this stunner of a Cartier anywhere else–it’s believed to be a one-of-a-kind piece created through the house’s New Special Order program.
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402BA
The original solid-gold Royal Oak. Need we say more? This is history right here.
1. Piaget for Cartier Tank Ref. 9200
Look, in a collection of watches like this, the number-one spot comes down to personal taste. Can I defensibly say this coral-dialed collaboration between Piaget and Cartier is superior in every way to some of the historic pieces on display in this auction? Maybe not. But is it the watch I most immediately fantasized about adding to my collection? You betcha. Will it ever get added to that collection? Probably not–while it may not be one-of-a-kind, it is currently the only watch of its kind on the market.
