Marcus Samuelsson’s new restaurant serves one of the best dishes in D.C.

While a number of dishes explain why Marcus DC is a hard reservation in the notorious slow months of summer in Washington, the most riveting is a shareable entrée that’s the taste equivalent of a three-ring circus.

Order Mel’s crab rice, and out comes a round pan of Carolina rice infused with obe ata, a rousing Nigerian red pepper and tomato sauce. The surface of the grains is colored with glossy bell peppers, okra stinging with hot sauce and spidery-looking, tangy fennel. Mounded on top is blue crab finished with béarnaise sauce mixed with uni — rich on rich, the top hat to complete the outfit.

Like a proper paella, some bites are crisp, others are soft. Each forkful delivers a riot of flavor. Lucky diners get the bonus of having the largesse presented by Anthony Jones, the restaurant’s executive chef. A son of Maryland, Jones pays tribute to his family’s favorite crab shack, Mel’s Crabs, near where he grew up in Calvert County with one of the best dishes now playing in Washington.

Yes, I’m obsessed with it. We should all have more obe ata and sea urchin butter in our lives.

The man behind the newcomer’s name is Marcus Samuelsson, the famous talent behind Aquavit and Red Rooster in New York whose portfolio embraces 15 restaurants. Washingtonians might recall the chef’s earlier flirtation with the area at Marcus at MGM National Harbor casino, a short-lived project Samuelsson would rather not dwell on. Born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, the chef, 54, much prefers talking about Marcus DC, set in the sleek Morrow hotel near Union Market. And rightly so: He’s in a hot spot of the best kind now — so much foot traffic! Such an inviting interior! — serving some of the most personal food of his career. He’s supported by a cast of locals, foremost Jones, whose attention and enthusiasm surface in every exchange and every dish.

Marcus Samuelsson’s new restaurant serves one of the best dishes in D.C.

Blue cornbread lashed with honey.

This being the Mid-Atlantic, much of the food originates from the water. Here come slices of fluke arranged in a circle with watermelon radishes and golden plantain crisps, buoyed by a fetching green pond: green apple and cucumber juice, as revivifying as the combination sounds. The kick on the plantains? Berbere, the Ethiopian spice blend. Browned scallops alternate with fleshy mushrooms and pickled white asparagus in another appetizer, this one set against a mole that’s a touch nutty and smoky. The airy-creamy green dollops? A whip of serrano, scallions and more. If you like spice, the kitchen has you covered.

Throughout the menu, the kitchen deploys little accents that nudge plates from good to great. “Swediopian” is fusion at its finest: silken cured salmon and charred cucumber around which a server pours goldenberry broth, light yet assertive with ginger, mint and lemon juice. A sail of crisp injera makes for a fun finish.

Samuelsson’s restaurants all serve cornbread, although it differs from location to location. For Marcus DC, the tall slices are tinted with blue corn, lashed with honey and presented with yassa butter, a spread of caramelized onion, preserved lemon and Dijon mustard that goes down like sunshine. The combination pretty much sells itself; I swear I overheard a woman next to me moan in pleasure when she took her first bite.

Seared scallops, pickled white asparagus and mushrooms atop mole.

The most widely consumed fish in Sweden makes another appearance in a select entrée, salmon crisped in the pan and so tender it falls away at the touch of a fork. Glazed with nori and gochujang, the fish arrives on a pale yellow butter sauce that pops with orange roe and gains color with minced chives. More fancies come courtesy of chunks of pickled daikon and little scrolls of sheer daikon wrapped around seaweed salad. Sweden meets Korea meets Japan. The strong ensemble cast reminds of my first dinner, when a server talked up Samuelsson’s far-flung interests. I recall the only continent he left out in his introduction was Antarctica.

Just as Le Clou, the newcomer’s predecessor in this space, represented an uptick in French restaurants around town, Marcus DC rides a welcome wave of Black chefs sharing their stories, notably Kwame Onwuachi at Dōgon and Eric Adjepong at Elmina. (Gone but not forgotten: Danielle Harris at the short-lived Almeda in Petworth.) As much as the menu, the interior helps tell Samuelsson’s story; the dining room is alive with colors that weave those of his youth with those of his travels. I love the spacious curved booths, the handsome bar and the open kitchen animated by cooks “in the city and of the city,” as Samuelsson puts it.

Friends have spotted the top chef multiple times on the Acela en route from New York to D.C. He’s in town a fair amount. Samuelsson might like to know he has a great ambassador in the personable Jones, 36, who previously cooked under his boss at Red Rooster Overtown in Miami and knows his taste and his standards.

Glazed salmon atop butter sauce with scrolls of seaweed.

This isn’t just a fishing hole, by the way. There’s roast chicken on the menu, because a hotel restaurant almost demands it. A glaze of sweet-tangy mumbo sauce brings it home. There’s a pasta, too, tossed with smoked clams and crisp snow peas and showered with pecorino, a little heavy for my taste. A meal could be made of the sweet potato, a side dish with star power: The smashed vegetable is made elegant with crème fraîche and shimmering salmon roe.

Samuelsson’s secret weapons extend to executive pastry chef Rachel Sherriffe, whose sweet résumé includes Rooster & Owl in Washington and Jean-Georges in New York. At Marcus DC, she seduces diners with an intriguing rice pudding whose crisp notes come from puffed rice and whose green hue and breezy accent stem from Thai basil. An oval of yogurt sorbet and ginger lime jelly add cool and spark to the bowl. (The bite in the jelly? Sherriffe, who plays up savory notes in her handiwork, sneaks cayenne into the jiggle.) A dome of warm plum cake, flavored with almond paste and subtly nutty with teff flour, arrives with a scoop of cardamom ice cream and a crimson pool of sorrel jus that acknowledge both Samuelsson’s background and her Jamaican heritage — “Everything diaspora,” says Sherriffe.

Server Diego Hernandez with patrons in the dining room.

Marcus DC

222 M St. NE. 202-280-2288. marcusdc.com. Open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Prices: $11 to $125 (for shareable seafood tower), main courses $26 to $68 (for shareable whole fish). Sound check: 75 decibels/Must speak with raised voice. Accessibility: A ramp in the hotel lobby feeds into the dining room; ADA-approved restroom.