The Princess of Wales’ Sarah Burton for Givenchy gown is a masterclass in fashion diplomacy

The Princess of Wales wore a scarlet caped Sarah Burton for Givenchy gown for the French State Banquet on Tuesday evening. - Chris Jackson

The Princess of Wales wore a scarlet caped Sarah Burton for Givenchy gown for the French State Banquet at Windsor Castle on Tuesday evening – her first since returning to work after her cancer treatment.

The silk creponne gathered dress reflects the Princess’s enduring relationship with Burton who designed the royal wedding dress during her tenure at Alexander McQueen. Burton was appointed creative director of Givenchy in September last year, and debuted her first collection in March of this year, marking a significant new chapter for the house.

It was the second masterful display of fashion diplomacy in a single day, in choosing a French fashion house helmed by a British designer. She wore a Christian Dior ensemble to greet the French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte at RAF Northolt – the luxury powerhouse has also recently appointed a British designer, Jonathan Anderson, as creative director, although Anderson is yet to show his first womenswear collection.

The Princess wore the Lover’s Knot tiara and a pair of Cartier earrings that had belonged to the late Queen - Chris Jackson

As is the custom for a white tie occasion, the Princess completed her look with a tiara – the Lover’s Knot, which she has turned to on many previous occasions. It was also a favourite of the late Diana, Princess of Wales. The diamond Greville chandelier earrings were Cartier – a French nod again – from the collection of the late Queen, and a Givenchy clutch with lily of the valley embroidery.

Pinned to the dress were the King Charles III Family Order (her first time wearing it), as well as the Royal Family Order of Elizabeth II, both represented by miniature portraits. She also wore the Rosette of Grand Officier l’ordre nationale du merité, as well as the Grand Cross of the Royal Victorian Order sash and star.

The colour of the gown is similar to the shade of the Alexander McQueen dress that Burton designed for Catherine’s 40th birthday portraits, observes Bethan Holt, Telegraph fashion director and author of The Duchess of Cambridge: A Decade of Modern Royal Style. “It was incredibly convenient for the Princess that the Macrons’ State Visit created an opportunity for her to commission her longtime favourite designer Sarah Burton to design her a gown in the name of fashion diplomacy,” she says.

The Prince and Princess of Wales welcome French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte to Windsor Castle - Alberto Pezzali/Pool

“Diplomatic considerations aside this hails a new chapter in the deep collaboration between Burton and the Princess. Catherine has entrusted Burton to create many of the most important outfits of her royal life and this is a sign that their relationship is set to continue.”

The Princess wasn’t the only guest to pull out the sartorial stops. Brigitte Macron also chose a caped gown, cobalt blue Louis Vuitton with jewelled shoulders, while the Queen wore white Fiona Clare Couture, with the King George VI sapphire necklace and the Belgian sapphire tiara. Together, the three women represented the colours of the French Tricolore, as well as those of the Union Jack.

The Queen wore Fiona Clare Couture, while Madame Macron wore a cobalt Louis Vuitton gown - Chris Jackson

The Duchess of Edinburgh wore a new gown by Suzannah London - Getty Images Europe

The Duchess of Edinburgh wore an ivory Suzannah London gown with the Wessex aquamarine tiara.

Also among the guests were Sir Mick Jagger, Dame Kristin Scott Thomas, Sir Elton John and David Furnish, writers Joanne Harris and Sebastian Faulks, artist Antony Gormley, England and Paris Saint-Germain goalkeeper Mary Earps, and First Dates star Fred Sirieix.

Catherine’s earlier look was equally significant: the blush Dior jacket and tulle pleated skirt were completed by a Jess Collett boater-style hat, earrings that had belonged to Diana, the last Princess of Wales, and a pearl necklace from the late Queen’s collection.

England Lioness and Paris Saint-Germain goalkeeper Mary Earps wore a bow-adorned gown for the banquet - AFP

Dior is one of the world’s biggest luxury brands, within the stable of French conglomerate LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods company.

Central to the ensemble was the 30 Montaigne Rose Des Vents Bar jacket – a signature Dior piece, known for its hourglass silhouette. This particular iteration, the 30 Montaigne Rose Des Vents, was from 2024, designed during the tenure of Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s only ever female creative director who announced her departure from the storied house in May.

It is now helmed by Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, the first creative director in Dior’s 78-year history to be responsible for both men and women’s clothing.

The original Bar jacket was created by Mr Dior in 1947, as part of his New Look, and has been reinterpreted by every creative director of Dior since.

The Princess chose to wear French fashion house Dior — a masterclass in royal style and subtle diplomacy - Andrew Parsons/Kensington Palace

Central to the Princess of Wales’s ensemble was the signature 30 Montaigne Rose Des Vents Bar jacket - Cover Images

However, as The Telegraph head of fashion Lisa Armstrong wrote in May, it was Chiuri’s which really spoke to the modern woman: “The original featured internal corsetry and horsehair padding on the hips. Comfort and movement were not considerations […] It was Chiuri who understood why very few women actually wore it in real life. By stripping it right back inside and rebuilding it with magical, light-touch tailoring that made it look every bit as snatched as the original – but a breeze to wear – Chiuri placed it on the wanted list of millions of women.”

Princess Margaret was a longtime admirer of Dior, helping to establish the fashion house’s enduring connection with the British royals - Mike Lawn/Getty Images

While this is the first time that Catherine has worn Dior for a formal engagement, the house has a long history with the British royals. Wallis Simpson loved to wear Dior, as did Princess Margaret, who wore Dior for her 21st birthday in 1951. In the Nineties, Princess Diana was such a devoted fan, the “Lady Dior” bag was renamed after her.

Princess Diana was such a devoted Dior fan that the fashion house renamed its iconic ‘Lady Dior’ bag in her honour - Getty Images/Bertrand Rindoff Petroff

The Duchess of Sussex has also long been a devotee of Chiuri’s Dior, choosing it for one of her first official engagements in 2018, and regularly in the years since, to the extent that both the Sussexes and Dior were forced to deny rumours that Meghan was set to be the new face of the brand. This loyalty extended to her husband’s wardrobe too – Prince Harry wore Dior to his father’s Coronation.

Meghan’s enduring devotion to Chiuri’s Dior is clear, often choosing the house for key engagements - Max Mumby/Indigo

For her part, Brigitte Macron wore Louis Vuitton – also from the LVMH stable – opting for a white midi-length dress with beige leather detailing at the waist. Unlike Catherine and the Queen, she opted not to wear a hat. While millinery is usual for greeting royals on a state visit, it’s not a breach of dress code.

Brigitte Macron wore a white Louis Vuitton midi dress with beige leather detailing at the waist for the state visit - Getty Images/Gonzalo Fuentes

While the Queen wore a Philip Treacy hat, the French first lady went without – a break from tradition, but not a breach of protocol - Chris Jackson/PA Wire

Her Majesty wore an emerald green chiffon dress by Anna Valentine, and a hat by Philip Treacy – along with the late Queen’s emerald and diamond brooch – to meet the Macrons when they arrived at Windsor Castle, where they will be staying for the duration of their visit.

Queen Camilla in emerald chiffon and the late Queen’s brooch, welcoming the Macrons to Windsor Castle - Chris Jackson/PA Wire

Back to Catherine, though, whose every sartorial detail will be pored over by fashion lovers and royal fans alike. It won’t have escaped their notice that beneath her boater was noticeably lighter hair.

It’s immaculately done, notes The Telegraph beauty director Sonia Haria: “Lightening dark brunette hair a fraction for the summer months is an old colourist’s trick for giving the hair a more sun-kissed appearance as the weather warms up,” she says. “Catherine’s caramel highlights are perfectly executed: they offer a subtle refresh and enhance the shine in her waist-length hair.”

These looks are not about trends, but it’s fair to say that the Princess is very much on point when it comes to the idea of the “French girl summer” – Google searches for the phrase are up by 100 per cent since June. Although, with a little assist from Givenchy and Dior, she’s given it a serious upgrade.

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