The Meaning Of “Coterie”: Celest Thoi On Fashion, Friendship & Finding Purpose In Design

What’s in a coterie?

In fashion, the word might evoke a circle of tastemakers, a rarefied club of the stylish and the seen. But for bridal and fashion designer Celest Thoi, it’s something far more intimate: a reminder of friendship, trust, and the collective heartbeat behind every piece she creates.

“The Coterie started with my girlfriends,” she says. “They were the ones who believed in me, supported me, encouraged me to start something. They’re still my best ambassadors today.”

Elegant, understated, and laced with quiet strength, Celest’s designs – whether bridal gowns or ready-to-wear – have long spoken to a kind of timeless femininity. But behind the white-on-white aesthetic and impeccable craft lies a deeper story of community, cross-cultural influence, and a life lived across continents.

From Down Under to Bangsar

Born in Singapore, Celest’s journey has taken her from Melbourne to New Zealand and finally to Malaysia. “Down under, the weddings are a lot more casual. There’s this sense of ease, even in how people get married,” she shares. “I like ease, but there are varying definitions of it. What they offered didn’t always resonate with me, but it shaped my taste. I like classic things – slightly Victorian silhouettes, but always modernised.”

It was in New Zealand, faced with a frustrating lack of bridal options that fit her petite frame, that Celest designed her own wedding dress. “I couldn’t find anything I liked or that fit me, so I started sourcing fabrics and working with a Malaysian seamstress I found there,” she recalls. “Then some friends started asking for help with their dresses, and I just fell in love with the whole process.”

That love soon became a business, then a calling. After opening her first boutique in New Zealand, Celest returned to Malaysia in the late 2000s – and slowly became one of the most trusted names in the country’s bridal circuit, known for her attention to detail, her obsession with fit, and yes, her commitment to white.

“I wear white all the time,” she laughs. “So my friends always ask, ‘Eh, where did you get that top?’ and I’ll say, ‘I made it.’ That’s how The Coterie line started too. They wanted pieces they could wear every day, but with that same level of craft.”

A Stitch in Time

Despite the visual minimalism, there’s nothing simple about the techniques behind a Celest Thoi piece. She adapts couture methods – meticulous hand-beading, expert tailoring, custom finishes – into her ready-to-wear line, often upcycling leftover fabrics from her bridal collections. “Once you know how to do couture, you can bring it into everything,” she says.

Sustainability, she adds, is not just a trend, it’s a mindset. “Clients are more mindful now. They’re asking questions about fabrics, where things are made. There’s definitely a shift to being more eco-conscious.”

It was COVID that pushed Celest into uncharted waters. With weddings postponed and lockdowns in place, she launched The Coterie as a more accessible, lifestyle-driven alternative. “I was delivering PPEs to hospitals at the time, with the police letter and all,” she says. “And then I’d swing by to drop off fabric or pick up samples. It was a crazy time, but we just made it work.”

Design with Heart

Celest’s version of “meaningful design” has always been rooted in purpose. She recalls sponsoring gowns for frontliners during the pandemic – two doctors in love, separated for months, finally reunited for a wedding Celest helped make happen. “Initially I just offered a dress,” she says. “But then the hotels, the flowers, the event planner – everyone came in to help. It turned into a full celebration. We just wanted to spread a little love.”

The sentiment extends far beyond aesthetics. “We’ve also sponsored a bridal gown for a teacher that quit her high-paying job to work at Teach for Malaysia. We meet people from all walks of life. If we can help, we help. That’s always been part of what we do.”

There’s a touch of quiet defiance too – in how she champions local talent and traditional crafts. “We’re just as good as the big names overseas. But Malaysian designers don’t always get the recognition. There’s so much talent here, so many artisans. Even our traditional crafts are so undervalued. I really hope that changes.”

We must celebrate the ones who are changing the landscape of fashion and arts here.

Celest Thoi.

The Power of Belonging

If community is the heart of Celest’s work, then comfort is its soul. “Comfort is key,” she says, with conviction. “Whether it’s a bridal gown or just a blouse, if you’re not comfortable, you won’t feel confident. And it’s only when you’re confident, you look good.”

This philosophy, rooted in care, extends to her clients – many of whom have become lifelong friends. “When I first moved back to Malaysia, I was miserable,” she confesses. “No friends, no network. But now I feel so blessed. It’s the people around you that make it worthwhile.”

That idea of being seen – truly seen – is what stays with her most after dressing hundreds of brides. “When they send me photos, thank you cards, when they tag us on their wedding day… it’s heartwarming,” she says. “It reminds me why I do this.”

Always Evolving, Never Trend-Chasing

In an industry often fuelled by seasonal hype, Celest’s pace is intentionally slow. “I don’t follow trends,” she laughs. “I just go with what I like. I think timelessness comes from knowing yourself.”

And yet, she continues to evolve. Showing at Mercedes-Benz FashionWeek is still nerve-wracking, even after all these years. “I always get butterflies,” she admits. “But just like I tell my kids: If you’re going to do something, do your best. If not, don’t do it at all.”

With two daughters (one studying criminology, the other leaning towards finance), Celest doesn’t expect the next generation to take up the reins. “They’ve seen how hard it is,” she says, with a laugh. “But who knows?”

As for what’s next, she dreams of creating a single dress entirely from off-cuts and leftover fabric – “A patchwork of memories,” she jokes, “and also, to clear out my space!”

But even in jest, it’s clear: Celest Thoi’s legacy is one stitched together not just with thread and tulle, but with intention, gratitude, and love.

“I’m a hopeless romantic,” she grins. “But at the end of the day, it’s about the people who witness your journey. That’s what matters most.”